Chocolate Souffle, much improved!

Ghirardelli in the double boiler, egg whites in the mixer, and D asking for Duncan Hines yellow cake to no avail...it all can only mean one thing: chocolate soufflé. That's right folks, I'm at it again.

Major differences between my first attempt and this recipe were the amounts of egg whites, milk, cream, and chocolate. Specifically: for the same amounts of butter, sugar, and egg yolks, recipe 2 had half the cornstarch, double the egg whites, 3x the chocolate, no cream, and 5x the whole milk instead. Yes, obviously the more chocolate, the better; but I'd also guesstimate that less cornstarch means less cake-y; more egg whites means lighter; more whole milk and less cream, again, lighter. In short, this is the kind of soufflé I've been craving all along. And hey, it only took one mess-up to hit the jackpot!

I was a bit concerned that when I was ready to fold in the egg whites, the chocolate mixture was still warm. (If you add egg whites to a warm batter, the air that you've whipped into the whites can quickly escape, leaving you with flat, heavy batter.) However, my fears did not materialize, and the soufflé held its volume quite nicely. The result was light, fluffy, warm, and ever so sinfully chocolate-y. So to all those who think souffle is this uber-delicate little gem never to be tampered with, ha! It can handle the heat.

Truthfully, people. There's almost nothing like taking the first bite out of a chocolate soufflé and watching the rest "relax" in the ramekin. Try it yourself; it's not as hard and scary as you might think. And, if it's not clear from my enthusiasm, the results are worth one or two mess-ups.

Chocolate Souffle

from Epicurious

serves 6.

• 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, softened
• 10 1/2 ounces (10 squares) extra-bittersweet chocolate
• 1 1/3 cups whole milk
• 1 tablespoon cornstarch
• 3 large egg yolks, room temperature, lightly beaten
• 6 large egg whites, room temperature
• 1/3 cup sugar; more for soufflé ramekins

1. Heat oven to 400 degrees. Butter and sugar six 6-ounce soufflé ramekins. Place on a rimmed baking sheet; set aside.

2. In a double boiler over medium heat, melt the chocolate until smooth. Remove from the heat and keep warm. (I found I had to stir it around with a fork every so often to keep it from getting chunky, but that will depend on your chocolate. The higher percentage of cocoa, the more you may need to stir.)

3. In a medium heavy-bottom saucepan combine milk and cornstarch. Stir well with a wooden spoon to combine. Bring the mixture to a boil over medium heat, stirring continuously, until thick.

4. Remove milk mixture from the heat, remove any skin that may have formed on top, and stir in warm melted chocolate. Let cool slightly. Add a bit of this mixture to the egg yolks to temper them, then add the lightly beaten egg yolks back into the milk mixture and stir until well combined.

5. In the bowl of a heavy-duty mixer, whip egg whites on medium speed until soft peaks form. Slowly add sugar and increase speed to high. Whip until shiny and stiff peaks form, about 3 minutes.

6. Using a whisk, lighten the chocolate mixture with about 1/3 of the beaten egg whites. Stir until well-combined. Using a large rubber spatula, fold in remaining egg whites until just incorporated.

7. Spoon mixture into prepared souffl
 ramekins; the mixture should come up to the top of the ramekin. Transfer filled soufflé ramekins on rimmed baking sheet to oven. Bake until risen, 12 to 15 minutes. Serve immediately.

Read more!

My quest for the perfect chocolate souffle

Three months of blogging and I actually have managed to not write about chocolate. It's really an embarrassment. Rarely does a day go by when I don't eat the stuff; how have I not blogged about a chocolate recipe yet??

Time to solve that.

Chocolate Souffle may be light and fluffy, but it's one of the richest ways to have your chocolate. When done properly, a delicate crust gives way to light but shockingly-rich innards, which deflate and melt on your tongue. Even better is when it's cut with straight cream at the table...ok, drooling.

I'll sing the praises of chocolate souffle forever, but finding the perfect recipe is proving to be a challenge. That's why this is the first in a series of posts, in which I'll try various recipes for chocolate souffle, rate them, and (hopefully) find or develop a foolproof recipe.

Recipe 1 comes from one of my favorite bloggers, Bea at La Tartine Gourmande. Her version calls for infusing the milk with fresh cardamom pods, which I love but don't have around the house, so I left them out. Here's the rundown:

Pros

• the batter had a nice, light texture that stood up to a bit of over-mixing
• the 20-25 minute cooking time was exactly right
• the recipe called for equal numbers of yolks and whites, which means no egg-parts sitting in the fridge and a very happy Rivka :)
  

Cons

• mine didn't rise to the heights that Bea's did. Who wants pouting souffles?
• I used more chocolate than Bea called for, and my souffles were simply not chocolate-y enough. More chocolate more chocolate!

The search continues...

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Pumpkin-Chocolate Chip Ring

On Sunday, D and I are hosting thirty-ish people for a housewarming. Our freezer is full to the top spinach-feta filo pies, tartlets and muffins, all shaped like my one tartlet pan. I'm making a meringue pavlova tomorrow, but I wanted another dessert, and I can't make any more tartlet-shaped things or my house will become one big tartlet. Enter David Lebovitz -- acclaimed chef, lucky Parisian, and expert food blogger. His pumpkin-chocolate chip ring recipe looked tasty, but I had no applesauce or orange juice in my fridge. I did, however, have some homemade yogurt (thanks to my new Salton yogurt maker). So I took David's recipe and messed around with it a little, substituting yogurt for the applesauce and orange juice, altering some other proportions slightly, and doubling the recipe. I also added some toffee bits, which practically melt into the cake while it bakes. The result is an incredibly light yet moist cake that tastes rich with pumpkin and chocolate but won't break your calorie bank. I'll most definitely be making this again.

Here's my one confession about the recipe: David Lebovitz is a professional. He used to be the pastry chef at The French Laundry, an acclaimed restaurant, and has written several fantastic cookbooks (including The Perfect Scoop, which has the best ice cream recipes EVER.) The point is, being a pastry chef means that he's very precise in his instructions, and I'm sure he's right that following those instructions will yield a better, lighter cake. having said that, I didn't follow any of his instructions (see all my asterisked notes throughout) and my cake came out fine. Do as you please....but I'm telling you, my "wrong" way works, too.

Pumpkin Chocolate Chip Ring
adapted from David Lebovitz.
serves 10-12, or 20ish if you cut thinner or half pieces.

2-1/2 cups whole wheat flour
1 tsp baking soda
1 tsp cinnamon
1/4 tsp. nutmeg
2/3 cup chocolate chips

2/3 cup canned pumpkin
1 cup plain yogurt or sour cream
1/4 cup plus 3 Tbsp brown sugar
2 large eggs
3 teaspoons oil
2 teaspoons vanilla

1. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350 degrees.

2. Mix together dry ingredients in a medium bowl and set aside.

3. In another bowl, mix together the wet ingredients and blend with a mixer on high until frothy, 1-2 minutes.*

4. Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients and add the wet ingredients. Stir together JUST UNTIL MIXED and add the chocolate chips. DO NOT OVERMIX.**

5. Grease a non-stick ring pan. If using a regular ring pan, grease and flour to ensure that the cake comes out cleanly. Spread the batter into the pan (and as usual, other pans will work -- the ring does look pretty, though.) David says "spread using a gentle touch."

6. Bake until top of the cake springs back when touched, about 40-42 minutes depending on your oven. DO NOT OVERBAKE.

7. Let cool on a wire cake rack, then invert. Let cool completely, then sprinkle with powdered sugar.

*I didn't use a hand mixer -- I just whisked the wet ingredients with a fork for a minute or two, until well mixed and light.
** I committed the sin of adding dry to wet -- and my cake still came out light and fluffy.

**Note: I've gotten a couple questions about how to make this pareve (non-dairy). The answer: subsitute David Lebovitz's wet ingredients for mine:

1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon canned pumpkin
1/4 cup unsweetened applesauce
grated zest of 1 orange
1/4 cup fresh orange juice or water
3 tablespoons packed dark brown sugar
1 large egg 1
1/2 teaspoon vegetable oil
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

The instructions in this recipe are the same for a pareve version of this cake, as they're mostly taken from Monsieur Lebovitz himself. Read more!